Greece: Stewed in History, Drenched in Olive Oil

In the past month, we've visited tons of well-preserved antiquities; I'm impressed that ruins have stood the test of time. Greece makes our country looks so young and naive in comparison.

I've attended lectures on history, healthcare, and education. I tried tasty foods and adjusted my eating times to have late dinners like the Greeks. Restaurant portions, I've learned, are generous because Greeks love to share. Men clamor for you to test their olive lotions, while others want to teach you how to swing worry beads correctly.

All the Greeks we've met have a fierce pride in their country. This was evident from the number of political demonstrations our first week in Athens, when elections were held. They love the landscape: fertile hills, goat-cluttered mountains, and turquoise oceans. For these reasons, and many more, I thank Greece for all it has shared.
Poli Efharisto

Delphi

On Thursday we visited the site of the oracle at Delphi, where ancient Greeks would come to ask questions about their lives. The prophet, a human 8-ball of sorts, would give cryptic answers because she was somewhat stoned. Pictured above is the temple of Zeus, the building where the prophetess would have been.

Ancient Olympics

We visited Olympia to see the site where the Olympic games were first held.

(above) At the far right of this photo is the entrance to the Olympic stadium, where races were held. These stone pedestals lining the stone wall are like a wall of shame. The penalty for cheating, in the early days of the Olympics, was to erect a statue of Zeus and have your name carved into the base so everyone would know you were a cheater. The public humiliation was designed so that you would disappoint your family, friends and entire community.

(above) Some of my group tested the Olympic stadium with a quick sprinting race. My favorite thing we learned was that the first Olympiads (all men) competed naked, slicked up with olive oil.

Napflion

We took a hydrofoil to Piraeus Port of Athens.

(above) The view from Palamidi fortress in Napflion.

(above) The shops in Napflion.

Ancient Epidaurus

(above) This dude is Asclepius, a healer god. He is often pictured with snakes, which is where the caduceus insignia for doctors comes from.

(above) In the center of this photo, Phil is testing the acoustics at the theatre at Epidaurus.
This is one part of the sanctuary of Asclepious. Our guide explained that this theatre held approximately 12,000 spectators.

Santorini

(above) I tasted wine at a wine museum.

Santorini was a lot more touristy than I expected. A lot of the shopkeepers aren't even Greek! They gave us strange looks when we said Thank You in Greek after making a purchase.

(above) Donkeys wait tired in the hot sun. People run them to avoid climbing the endless steps on the island.

(above) My first falafel! I got falafel balls, with tzaztiki sauce and salad.

(above) We hiked over the caldera, meaning cauldron, formed from volcanic eruptions.

(above) The sunset in Oia (pronounced Eee-yah)

The hills are aliiiiiive...

By now, we're used to being on buses. Today's bus ride, however, was a whole new experience. We zigzagged through the mountains, driving at the edge of cliffs on roads barely wide enough for two vehicles. I watched out my window, holding my breath the entire time. I imagined the bus driving off the edge, spiraling end over end, with all of us plunging to our deaths. I wondered who would find us out here and when people would begin to worry. Only after I assured myself that the bus driver had probably driven the route dozens of times was I able to enjoy the scenery.

And what scenery it was. I knew there were mountains in Greece, but until today I didn't fully comprehend how vast and gigantic the mountains are and how terrifyingly low the gorges seem from higher points. Driving across Crete reminds me of The Sound Of Music. The endless mountains, the clear blue sky, and goats frolicking everywhere. At one point (seen below) we had to stop the bus for a passing herd of goats.

Sometimes you just have to jump...

After a morning of visiting more ruins, we went to Matala beach. It's known as the hippie beach, since there are caves where hippies lived in the 1970's.

Check out the photo above. To the right of the center is a person standing on a cliff. We swam out to there, climbed up on the rocks and pencil-jumped into the water from the cliff. I was all excited to cliff-jump. When I got up on the rock, though, I looked down and the water seemed sooo far away. My heart was beating so loud, I thought the German boy who helped me climb up could probably hear it. I took a deep breath and jumped. I floated back to shore, grinning the whole way, proud I had taken the plunge.

Rethymnon

We took a walking tour of Rethymnon, the city we're staying in while we're on the island of Crete. My favorite part was this pastry making couple. They didn't speak much English, but they showed us a short documentary someone had done on their shop, and demonstrated some of their techniques. We all got backlava to eat! (as if I haven't had too much already)

(above) a shop selling things made from olive wood.

After the walking tour, I took my own shopping tour. I wandered in and out of anywhere that pleased me. I sat and ate banana-nutella crepes for lunch. It's shocking how many little crepes places are here--You'd think we were in France. Eating alone in a restaurant felt awkward at first. But I was glad I hadn't brought a book to retreat into; I watched passersby while I ate slowly, soaking in the flavor of Cretan life.

I returned with flipflops, a new bikini, a used paperback book (I traded one of the ones I brought with me!) and contentment from having an afternoon to wander wherever I pleased.

Arkhanes

Arkhanes, where we ate lunch yesterday, was an adorable little village, with very few tourists.

A bouncy ride

I rode a donkey!!! Her name was Mimi, and she carried me up the acropolis of Lindos.

In the Water Closet

One thing that mystifies all the girls on the trip is the bathrooms. Most of them have a little sign by the toilet that says "No Paper!" which is just ridiculous. What is a toilet for, if not for carrying away all the waste? Putting toilet paper in a can is just strange.

The Potter

This man showed us how he does pottery. I was utterly impressed by his technique. Then we saw where women carve and paint all the pottery. Afterward, the class wandered around the shop to see if anyone wanted to bring home souvenirs. There was only one thing I liked: In the workshop, there was a white teapot. I told Niki I liked it, so she asked the potter in Greek, "Was everything carved and painted, or was there anything still white like this teapot?" and I was like...'Ask him if I can have that teapot!" So she did. And he explained that, not only did he not make the teapot, but it was not even clay. It was a porcelain teapot he got from a hotel so he could eventually model something after its shape. I think it was clear that I thought everything he actually made was ugly. FML.

Niki's education lecture

This is Niki Karavasili, Katula's former student who has a degree in archeology. As Katula's teaching assistant on this trip, she's been traveling along with us and often translating for us, since she's Greek.

On Thursday morning, she gave a talk on Greek education. In Greece state universities are free, so students (and parents!) spend their senior year of high school preparing for a big test. Like the SATs, top scores determine where you will go to school. Students who don't get in often end up paying to go to university in neighboring countries.

She believes the education system here is badly in need of reform. She dislikes how there are never multiple choice exams. Instead students must memorize portions of textbooks and regurgitate them verbatim. She hates that Greek professors are unapproachable. If students want to speak to professors, they must schedule a formal appointment, rather than hang around after class to chat.

Ancient Kamiros and Filermos

On Wednesday, we hiked around the remains of the ancient city of Kamiros.

(below) Lizard!!

(Above) The cylindrical rock in the center of the photo is where people stood to give speeches.

(above) The trees to the right of this photo were among those razed by the rampant forest fires of 2007.

(Above) The giant cross at Filermos.

(Below) At Filermos, there were also peacocks!! I didn't realize they could fly into trees or squack so loud.

Dinner adventure

Thursday night, Kelly, Valerie, and I went off in search of authentic Greek cuisine. We were tired of eating at all the super touristy places. Kelly got a recommendation from our guide Yorgos, but when we arrived at the restaurant, it was empty and padlocked. We then wandered into a smoky billiards hall filled with old Greek men. We asked where was a good place to eat and the guys were unianimous: nearby restaurant Ouzaki (ouzo is a local liquor).

(above) Val and I, stuffed and happy.

(above) Our dinner table at Ouzaki. I got marinated mushrooms in addition to a shrimp dish, but we all shared so we'd get to taste everything.

(above left) Peppers stuffed with a spicy feta mixture (above right) a fava bean puree with diced onions

(above) my Shrimp saganaki: whole shrimp with feta in a tomato-y sauce.

Yorgos told us, "Curiousity is the only cure for boredom-There is no cure for curiousity."
I think we satisfied our curiousity...for that night at least.

Tourism

(above) From left: Kelly, Savannah, Laura, and Jenna with cocktails decked out with sparklers, neon straws and stirrers of naked people.

Rhodes is waaaay more touristy than I thought it would be. Part of that is because we're staying in a really touristy area, where bunches of hotels line the Aegean coastline. Tourism is the major industry of Rhodes. Thursday, we were scheduled to see another antiquity with our guide here, Yorgos. He couldn't do Thursday, though, because tour guides were going on strike. Apparently archeologists want to be able to lead tours too. The guides want the government to allow only them to guide since most aren't certified to do anything else-they feel like another group is encroaching on their livelihood.

Rhodos

The Greek word for the island of Rhodes is Rhodos, meaning rose.

New life skill..

Finally I washed clothes in the sink. It was hard to plug the sink, but the clothes seem adequantely washed. I hung them off the balcony overnight and they were dry in the morning. The shout wipes Mom insisted I pack have already been a valuable ally. I feel more like a traveler after this mini adventure. (as I write this, my classmates are discussing finding a laundry service)

Daytrip to Symi

We took a ferryboat to the small island of Symi. The boat stopped on one side of the island so everyone aboard could visit a small monastery. (Above) Here I am in front of the bell tower, with one of the shawls they passed out to us girls whose shoulder-baring and low-cut tops were too scandalous to enter a religious place.

Below is the other side of Symi, where sea sponges are a main draw. Most of us brought snorkels to see the underwater life. I failed at snorkeling. I don't think the mask was tight enough because I kept getting water up my nose.

I ate lunch by myself in a little cafe: a huge spanakopita with banana juice. I wanted to get it to go, to sit and eat on the beach, but the owner insisted I stay and eat. I talked for awhile to a Greek Austrailian world traveler, journeying mostly to places where he has relatives. I began to see how it would be possible to travel alone: you would strike up conversations with strangers and meet lots of people along the way. Still, I am probably too high maintainance to go backpacking. The lack of hairstyling tools in my arsenel is making me antsy.

Week Two Begins

Today we hiked among ruins, explored Rhodes' walled city (Old Town), and learned a lot of history through art and artifacts as explained by our tour guide, Yorgos.

(above) Rhodes is split into New Town (pictured above), Old Town (pictured below), and the touristy hotel area where we're staying.

(above) Rhodes' Old Town has quaint narrow streets, with many ivy-covered buildings.

(above) A lemon tree....which reminds me, lemonade is fizzy here--sooo not what I was expecting.

(above) Rhodes' Old Town is surrounded by large stone walls.

(above) Look at this fabulous piece of Greek art!

(above) One of many impressive mosaics we saw today.

(above) Sun sets over one rocky beach of Rhodes.

(below) Our guide, Yorgos.